Isle of Skye

Skye is not a day trip, though plenty of people try. It is Cuillin rock, a lot of sheep, a bridge from Kyle, a weather system of its own, and in July a line of cars at every famous lay-by. The island is still the island if you get up early and do not attempt the Old Man, the Fairy Pools, Neist and the Cuillin before lunch.

Pick a side

North: Trotternish, the Quiraing, the Storr. West: Waternish, Dunvegan, Neist if you can park. Glen Brittle and the Fairy Pools are their own circus in season. The Cuillin need boots and a plan, not a phone and a drone.

Portree is the useful town. Broadford is the useful supermarket. Uig is the ferry you should have booked. Midges, dreich, a sudden blue hour that makes everyone crash the same gate: all standard.

Why the name: why Skye is called Skye. The candle: Skye. If you are coming via Dornie, Eilean Donan is the castle on the way.